WHAT: A careful look at the current condition of the skis and an assessment of the true angles of bases and edges.
HOW: Though damage to a ski may be clearly evident, in most cases, the small adjustments that will make a ski perform better can be identified only with a trained eye and careful measurement with a true bar.
WHY: Every pair of skis is different. Also, your skis may not be set at the angles you think they are.
STEP 2- SIDEWALL SHAPING
WHAT: Excess material is removed from the sidewall and topsheet to “shape” the ski to a tapered, rather than vertical, edge.
HOW: Material is removed using a combination of hand tools. Remaining material is sanded smooth.
WHY: Creating a tapered sidewall and topsheet will prevent the ski from pushing into the snow while the ski is on edge, which causes loss of power and performance (the same effect as “booting out”). Additionally, removing sidewall material makes it easier to properly maintain skis because a bevel guide can properly rest on the edge of the ski and create the desired bevel.
STEP 3-SETTING SIDE EDGE BEVEL
WHAT: Then the side edge bevel Is set to the specifications of the individual skier.
HOW: Side edges are set by hand, using a side edge guide and a file.
WHY: Side edge bevel controls how powerful the ski is on edge. A sharper 3 degree bevel will hold better on ice than a 2 degree, but will not stay sharp as long.
STEP 4- FLATTENING
WHAT: Skis that come into Edgewise for grinding are FLATTENED using a stonegrinder. On a truly flat ski, the base material and the base edge form a seamless transition on the base of the ski.
HOW: A progressive stone grinding process allows us to flatten the base material until flat and free of any structure.
WHY: The base bevel is the heart and soul of a pair of skis. Too much base bevel will cause the skis to react slowly, diminishing performance. A ski needs to be flattened in order to correctly set base bevel.
STEP 5- FINISH GRIND
WHAT: A base grind that is specific to the conditions and/or disciplines in which you ski. At Edgewise, there are 8 programmed grinds that are currently being used by athletes on the U.S. Ski Team. These same grinds are available to our customers and can be reproduced consistenly every time. Edgewise can also customize a grind to meet your specific needs.
HOW: The Wintersteiger Discovery is capable of an infinte number of grinds.
WHY: The pattern of the grind determines how the ski moves water. Different grinds are faster in different conditions.
STEP 6- BASE EDGE BEVEL
WHAT: Setting the base bevel at the angle best for your skiing. Base bevel generally ranges from 0 degrees to 1 degree. Edgewise recommends starting with less base bevel, rather than more because adding base bevel is a much easier process and is better for the life of your skis than taking it away. A half degree of bevel is a great place to start.
HOW: Base bevel is applied by hand, using precise base bevel guides.
WHY: Base bevel affects how reactive a ski will be on snow, it also affect edge hold on ice. Too much base bevel will not allow the ski to hold well in firm/icy conditions and also makes the skis feel damp and lifeless.
STEP 7- TOUCH-UP
WHAT: Making the edges smooth, fast, and sharp.
HOW: Touch-up is done with a progression of sandpaper, diamond and ceramic stone.
WHY: Smooth, clean edges glide well and give superior edge hold on firm/icy snow.
STEP 8- MEASURING SIDECUT
WHAT: The sidecut of a ski is determined by length of the ski, and width at tip, tail and waist.
HOW: A series of measurements and formulas determine the actual turning radius of a ski.
WHY: Knowing the actual turn radius of your skis helps you understand why your skis make you fast or slow. Picking the right sidecut can make you a faster racer. A ski may say it meets the minimum sidecut requirement for F.I.S. racing, but it’s turn radius may be longer than that.
STEP 9- CHECKING THE SIDECUT FOR SHIFTING/CHOOSING EDGES
WHAT- When skis come out of a mold, sometimes they will shift side to side.
HOW- When a ski is made, if it doesn’t stay in the mold for the proper amount of time they can shift in the waist. As the epoxy/resins in the ski cure they can push and pull on the interior construction of the ski, changing the skis shape and sidecut.
WHY- If the waist of a ski changes, one side of the ski will turn easier than the other. If one side of a 27 meter ski shifts too far, it can change the turn radius to 26 meter on that side, making the other side of the ski 28 meter. The more you know about your equipment, the more you can use it to your advantage.
STEP 10- WAXING AND BRUSHING
WHAT: Getting the wax deep into the base material.
HOW: We start by using glide wax cleaner to remove any impurities or grinding emulsion from the skis. Then we wax: first with soft fluorocarbon wax, then progressively harder high fluoro wax. Waxing is followed by brush progression from coarse to fine. The wax and brush cycle is repeated, slowly working the wax into the bases.
WHY: Because fluoros stick to fluoros, a base well conditioned with fluoros will hold high fluoro race waxes longer. The softer wax penetrates deep into the pores of the base material, while the harder wax is appropriate for winter conditions.
STEP 11- THERMOBAG TREATMENT or RENN WAX
WHAT: A thermobag treatment is not simply throwing a pair of skis into a heated box for a few hours. The key to the process is found in the repeated cycle of waxing, brushing and boxing that delivers 150-200g of wax into the base of your skis. It takes over 10 hours of work to complete a thermobag treatment.
HOW: Skis are waxed and put to sit in the bag for 4 hours. When they come out, they are scraped, brushed, and the process is reapeated.
WHY: The prolonged exposure to the heat helps the base material to accept more wax. The resulting process provides an ultra smooth, deep and fast base surface–the ultimate for fast skis!